D-link Dir-601 Driver For Mac
I bought this a few months ago and was very happy with it's performance. I had read on a few sites about them dropping signal in wireless occasionally. I didn't have that happen but a few of my electronics could not connect N, even when the router was set to N only. Then a few weeks ago I started getting lost connection to my ISP and a reset would bring it back but it happened more and more. I wasn't too upset seeing as I had only paid about $20 and it was refurbed. But I did some research and found a DD WRT custom firmware for this device.
I had flashed to the latest stock firmware and it didn't help so I figured it couldn't hurt. The results are pretty amazing. All my devices now connect on N regardless of whether it is set to a B/G/N mix or N only. The system is much more configurable so I can get the best performance out of my wireless connection.
- Free Download D-Link DIR-601 Wireless N 150 Home Router Firmware 1.01NA (Firmware). - Fixed: MAC address issue. It is highly recommended to always use the most recent driver version available. Try to set a system restore point before installing a device driver. This will help if you installed an incorrect or mismatched driver.
- D-Link DIR-601:: Setting Up A 601 As A Wireless Repeater? Feb 23, 2011 I want to extend the range of the wireless network using a 601 (or just a relatively lowend N series).
The flash process is fairly simple, but if you are not that tech savvy find someone to help or just read a lot online. It is nice to salvage a good device and end up bringing it back a great device. You can google DD-WRT Wiki. The unit worked well for 3 weeks, then it failed.
So sad:( Hardware setup was simple. Configuring the router was more difficult. The CD didn't work for me, so I used the Web-based configuration utility, guided by the manual on the CD.
I have not checked the Linksys site, because the wireless router is the D-Link DIR-601, for which I have installed the latest firmware. Disconnecting the Linksys router (actually just a switch; it isn't a wireless router) doesn't help.
BTW, my OS is Win XP SP-3 PROBLEM: I could not connect to my router's web page, even though the hardware was set up correctly. My router's IP address is.
(from the bottom of the unit). SOLUTION: A privacy setting in Internet Explorer was causing the problem (and even affected Firefox). To solve: In IE, go to the tools menu, click on internet options, then click on the privacy tab, then click on the sites button. Add your routers IP address to allow cookies. You will need to reboot your computer after changing the settings. Then click Start, go to Run, type.
(if that's your router's IP address) and then press enter. Once I could connect with the D-link web page, things went fairly well using it's Internet Setup Wizard. Tip: the manual says the WPA security password can be up to 63 characters long, but keep it to 30 or less (I had to shorten mine later when I installed my wireless extender).
Also, the SSID is simply the name of your network, so there's no benefit from making it long. I then updated the firmware, using instructions in the manual. I was tempted to try using DD-WRT open source firmware, but was warned that it could render the router useless, so I stuck with D-link.
Finally, I had to set up a Wireless Network Connection in Windows which was fairly easy. Once set up, the router worked well, except it totally failed at the three week mark. The unit worked well for 3 weeks, then it failed. So sad:( Hardware setup was simple.
Configuring the router was more difficult. The CD didn't work for me, so I used the Web-based configuration utility, guided by the manual on the CD. BTW, my OS is Win XP SP-3 PROBLEM: I could not connect to my router's web page, even though the hardware was set up correctly.
My router's IP address is. (from the bottom of the unit). SOLUTION: A privacy setting in Internet Explorer was causing the problem (and even affected Firefox). To solve: In IE, go to the tools menu, click on internet options, then click on the privacy tab, then click on the sites button. Add your routers IP address to allow cookies. You will need to reboot your computer after changing the settings.
Then click Start, go to Run, type. (if that's your router's IP address) and then press enter. Once I could connect with the D-link web page, things went fairly well using it's Internet Setup Wizard. Tip: the manual says the WPA security password can be up to 63 characters long, but keep it to 30 or less (I had to shorten mine later when I installed my wireless extender). Also, the SSID is simply the name of your network, so there's no benefit from making it long. I then updated the firmware, using instructions in the manual. I was tempted to try using DD-WRT open source firmware, but was warned that it could render the router useless, so I stuck with D-link.
Finally, I had to set up a Wireless Network Connection in Windows which was fairly easy. Once set up, the router worked well, except it totally failed at the three week mark. I bought this a few months ago and was very happy with it's performance. I had read on a few sites about them dropping signal in wireless occasionally. I didn't have that happen but a few of my electronics could not connect N, even when the router was set to N only.
Then a few weeks ago I started getting lost connection to my ISP and a reset would bring it back but it happened more and more. I wasn't too upset seeing as I had only paid about $20 and it was refurbed. But I did some research and found a DD WRT custom firmware for this device. I had flashed to the latest stock firmware and it didn't help so I figured it couldn't hurt. The results are pretty amazing. All my devices now connect on N regardless of whether it is set to a B/G/N mix or N only.
The system is much more configurable so I can get the best performance out of my wireless connection. The flash process is fairly simple, but if you are not that tech savvy find someone to help or just read a lot online.
It is nice to salvage a good device and end up bringing it back a great device. You can google DD-WRT Wiki. I love this router, especially since I went to DD-WRT firmware. I was having a little bit of a problem with it dropping the signal occasionally, even just a room away, with the stock firmware. I had looked at the DD-WRT website, but there didn't appear to be an exact match for the dir-601. Then surfing on the one computer I had a wired connection on, I found step-by-step instructions to upgrade to DD-WRT plus a link to the exact firmware I needed for my 601. Here's the address for the YouTube instruction/review:.
Since I upgraded to the DD-WRT firmware, this little router rocks. It no longer drops the signal on me, in fact I am writing this while connected one floor above, two rooms and a stairwell away from the router. I have four computers, a Wifi printer, two game consoles and two Wifi blu-ray players hooked to it, it doesn't even hiccup. Frankly, since it will handle WPA2, it wouldn't be a bad router for a small business.
The DD-WRT interface is more intuitive and gives a lot more granular control than the stock one did. This is may only a 150mbps 'N' router, not the 300, but I only get 12mbps out of my cable modem anyway.
With the number of connections it handles, the distance it reaches and the $20 it cost me(with shipping!) I love this little router. It IS possible to 'brick'(make it useless) the router when flashing the firmware, but that's true even with upgraded firmware from the manufacturer. It's not a big risk though, and to me, it was totally worth it. It turned a marginally useful router into an excellent one. Set up took me 10 min - pretty self explanatory off the cd.
It shows you pictures and tells you what to do. I went with the router cuz i needed one fast, and i preferred to not break my bank.
I do still want the one i am originally waiting for to come down in price some - the dir-655 or dir-825, but i'm not trying to go bankrupt right now, lol. So i picked up this one - as kinda an intro to the d-link product line. So far, I like d-link.
This router is pretty good for the price and what you're getting. I mean, it's basic - but it provides ample wifi signals thru out the house. I have a 2 story house. My router is setup on the 2nd floor in my room.
If I am anywhere upstairs - my signal is full strength (5 bars). If I am downstairs, my connection is 2 bars - so it's low down there, but you still get wifi downstairs. Now I have tested it thoroughly for 2 months before posting this review here. I haven't dropped any connections when I am upstairs, however, I have dropped connections a few times being downstairs. The only other thing I have noticed - was after setup, and also this happens every now and then (whether up or downstairs), i will get the 'not responding' prompt in my browsers - i think it's the router. I don't have more then a few windows open at once - say like 4-5 at a time.
Sometimes i have 20 windows open at once, and it's fine. Other times i have 5-7 windows open, and i get that prompt. My anti-virus is straight, so i know it's not that.
I think it's the router. It only mostly does this when i am logging on - almost like it takes a lil bit of time for it to recognize 'okay we're online, okay let's go surf now' or something. I don't know. It's not a bad router for the bucks - but i would suggest maybe going for the rangebooster of d-link if you want to keep price down and want more range.
I wish i had gotten that one now. I definitely will be upgrading this router soon, but at least i have the comfort of being where ever and not having to hard line in and be confined to where my modem is. In my house, we seem to burn through an average of at least one wireless router every 12 months. For this reason, I did not want to spend a ton of money on a router that wasn't going to last more than a year. Amazon offered this D-Link DIR-601/RE for a reasonable price, a manufacturer-refurbished model.
For an experienced computer user, the plug-in and hookup of this router was painless and unremarkable. The software-guided on-screen setup for the router settings should make that part of the job easy even for someone who isn't an advanced tech user. This router works flawlessly throughout our entire one-story house, with old walls so thick that we can't even get a regular TV antenna to work anywhere in the house. Once I stepped outside with my cell phone set to wi-fi, the router signal immediately disappeared.
But as long as I was inside the house, the router signal worked perfectly. On the main PC in the house, the one connected directly to the high-speed DSL modem through this router, there was no drop-off in the reliability and speed of the DSL connection. With our last router, this was the first sign of impending trouble.
So this router works as described, right out of the box, without any headaches or hassles. EDITED TO ADD: After two weeks of constant use, this router hasn't had to be restarted even one time - it's worked continually without any problems at all. I highly recommend this product. I was shopping for wireless access points to connect my DVR's, and couldn't ignore the price on this router. I wasn't expecting Aironet type quality, but figured this would work out better than 'cheapest you can get me' AP's. Unfortunately, I was dead wrong.
The included firmware is absolute garbage. It somehow manages to be overly complex for less-technical users, while lacking really basic functionality for advanced users. On the bright side, I received revision A hardware, which is DD-WRT and Gargoyle friendly. Getting these to work as AP's is probably beyond the scope of what most people will buy these for, but I'd be happy to go over it in the comments section, if anyone's interested. Instead, I'll limit the review to sustained throughput. In a word: it's awful.
Wireless connections would drop in ranges beyond 10 feet, with limited RF interference and nothing more than drywall in between. When connections could be sustained for a meaningful amount of time, getting consistent throughput higher than 10 mb was virtually impossible.
At best, the two units I had performed about as well as an 802.11b router with a broken antenna. If you're value-conscious and looking to share a 768k DSL connection in a single room, this will probably do the job just fine. Or, if you're primarily looking for a wired router, this isn't a bad choice (assuming you change out the firmware). Otherwise, I'd probably save up for a better router - or in my case, pay a few dollars more for proper WAPs. I went in with the intent of installing DD-WRT or the newer, and in some cases better, Gargoyle firmware and I have no need for 11n connectivity (at the moment) so this seemed just what the doctor ordered since it doesn't seem to be the latest and greatest 11n hardware. It came in the original packaging with all accessories and a few superficial scuffs that are not even worth mentioning and I am happy to report that Gargoyle installed effortlessly on the refurbished A1 revision of this router (purchased through DependableResource) that can be had here for little more than the cost of a long piece of CAT5.
I'm sure most users have heard of DD-WRT, but Gargoyle is basically a nice light-weight frontend (and more!) for the OpenWRT firmware. Very robust and quick, it appears to be able to go toe-to-toe with my Buffalo router using Tomato-SpeedMod that cost almost three times as much! I've read of range issues with DD-WRT on this router and I think it is because the limit for transmit power is much lower than Gargoyle's and the latter is able to be 'hacked' for more power.
Solid signal, no drops, but then again I am running it as a bridge at the moment. Cannot be happier!
Ordered these refurbished D-Link wireless routers which I've used in the past. Buying refurbished is really a good money saving way to enjoy technology and save a few dollars. I've purchased refurbished DIR-601 routers before and they were factory certified refurbished. I ordered 3 of these routers for some test purposes and was surprised when the very timely shipment arrived. All three units showed some amount of surface wear which was OK, but showed evident usage.
Packaging was the same as the original product and mostly complete. Two of the three units were hardware A1 and a third one was hardware B1 (not listed on the D-Link web site, but listed on the FTP site). All three units had passwords set at the admin and user level (a good security practice) but were not accessible - a hardware reset was required for access. All three had the original firmware levels.none were at the most current level.
The real message is these 'refurbished' D-Link DIR-601 unites were not factory refurbished (which carry the 'RE' as part of the model number) and thus the risk is higher. I normally do not write reviews but feel I should say this. I received this router which had a broken antenna on arrival. It isnt refurbished.
It still had the previous owners info saved to it so I was unable to access it at first. I finally got it reset with my information and it worked for 1 day and now I can't access the internet anymore.
The install cd was a blank CD-R and the instructions were a print out. Also, electronics that are refurbished normally have a sticker saying so and who did it. Has no sticker. Big surprise right?? I didnt need a router that bad, we basically wanted to be able to connect all of our phones, xbox and tablets to the internet at the same time so I didnt go through the trouble of sending it back.
I just threw it away and lost $21. Very disappointed in this product and I feel others should be warned. It should not be listed as refurbished, it is just used and way past its prime. I bought this product refurbished. It worked as new, the packagin was like brand new. All of the instructions, cables and CD were included inside the box.
I installed it as easy as pop in the CD and follow a few instructions. I had major difficulties that were my own doing and I will share them so that noobs won't suffer my hours of frustration!
1) To get 120-150mbps I used a USB extension and placed it closer to the routr away from electricall devices. You can lose or gain alot of signal strength by simply turning over the adapter upside down or vice versa. 2) Use the 'admin' settings on the routers IP adress website to make it full wilreless N, or N/G or G/B. I could not connect my XBOX 360 with just N so I set it to N/G and it pickes up the signal perfectly. Some devices do not pick up N signals. 3) In admin settings there are 11 channels, pick one that won't interfere with other similar 2.4ghz signals that will slow down and decrease the range of the router. Someone nearby had herG router on channel 11 so I set mine on channel 1 which is the furthest from 11 for better signal.
The default channel is between at 6.
D-Link DIR-601:: Mac Filtering Not Working Oct 15, 2010 I tried to find an answer to my issue however came up short. Did find,url. But that for a 600 not 601. I have 'Mac filtering on and to only ALLOW the addresses below' however, it allows any computer, even if i do not have them listed. Similar Messages:. ADVERTISEMENT Jan 17, 2011 It seems (and should be) pretty straight forward; under ADVANCED go to WEBSITE FILTERING and enter in the URI, or partial URI, that you want blocked and make sure the drop-down menu is 'DENY computer access to ONLY these websites'. The only problem is, I can still get to all of them. I saw in another forum that you had to check 'Enable Access Control' and go through a 6-step process where you specify machines - I truly hope that isn't the solution, because it's needlessly complicated for most users who only want to block ALL devices on their network from accessing certain sites.
D-link Dir 601 Installation
My Hardware Version is B1 and my Firmware version is 2.00NA. Aug 3, 2012 I am trying to filter a URL, facebook and it is not working. I have tried rebooting the router and it is still allowing access.
I have provided the settings and ranges for PCs. Jul 12, 2012 I have dlink dir-600 router and I want to block access to website URL for only one PC connect to router. I can either block web access to both PCS connected or block entire web access to one PC. Feb 7, 2012 I have come across articles mentioning that URL Filtering can be implemented by using ASA 5505 with URL Filtering Servers. But Websense and other Web Filtering Servers are paid ones? Are there any free solutions available?
What exactly is N2H2? The reason is I don 't want to increase the CPU utilization of ASA by implementing URL filtering within the device. If I have around 30 nodes which connects to the internet via a 2Mbps line through ASA 5505 and if I want to block around say 10 or 15 URLs, will it increase CU utilization beyond permissible limits? Currently the CPU Utilization is around 10 - 15. Here's the infrastructure setup. Nodes -Switches-ASA 5505-Internet - Feb 12, 2011 My network is set up in the following way. DSL-320B Linksys E3000 192.168.0.0/24 Subnet A Static Route 192.168.1.0 255.255.255.0 192.168.0.100 Wan Port 192.168.0.100 DIR-655 DIR-655 192.168.1.0/24 Subnet B I am unable to browse by IP any machines on Subnet B from Subnet A and suspect this is due to the NAT and the Endpoint filtering within the DIR-655.
Jan 23, 2013 Where on my router interface I could go to enable both the SPI Firewall, and the Wireless MAC Filtering? I have the D-link DIR-815. May 20, 2011 DIR600 doesn't allow me to enable wireless MAC filtering when I setup DIR600 as access point. (I connected DIR600 (access point) to my another room's router.) Jul 10, 2011 I would like to know how to configure my DIR-600s firewall UDP Endpoint Filtering. I ve read some guides and I ve got to configure this to Endpoint Independent in order to play League of Legends.
The problem is that I can see the option Firewall & DMZ but then I don't see the UDP or TCP Endpoint Filtering options. Jan 23, 2013 I have had a great experience with my old DIR-655 (rev A) router. However, I would like to upgrade to a newer and better D-link router for my home that contains many well-connected children. Which routers are like my DIR-655, and have better overall performance than the DIR-655 without necessarily using the benefit of the 5 GHz second band. What better performing routers can record more than 24 MAC addresses in the Network Filtering area?
I understand many people don't agree with MAC address filtering, but I like it to keep my kids from giving out my network password to all the neighbor kids and their friends too. So, MAC address filtering works for me. Or, should I just get an updated version of the DIR-655? Jan 5, 2011 My DIR-655: Hardware Version: A4 Product Page: DIR-655 The problem is that Website Filer doesn't work if on STEP 3: SELECT MACHINE of Access Control the machine was selected by MAC address. When the machine was selected by IP everything is fine.The problem is that IP addresses are assigned dynamically, so how to make sure that the policy would be applied to the same machine? Jan 28, 2012 I have yet another problem now with the DIR-825.
I have a DAP-1522 that I connect my multimedia devices to like my TV, BD player, etc. For added security, I use MAC filtering to only allow access to my devices that connect to my router. However, after several hours, the devices connected to my DAP-1522 can no longer connect and neither can I connect to them. The odd thing is that I can connect just fine to the 1522 itself. I NEVER had this issue with the DIR-655 so I figured it had to be the 825. After trying several things, I essentially narrowed it down to the MAC filtering. If I turn MAC filtering off everything works fine all the time.
If I turn it on, everything works fine for several hours, even up to a whole day, but then eventually my devices can no longer see or be seen. Mar 19, 2011 All 3 previous wireless routers I've had were all LinkSys routers and I had to overcome a learning curve since configuring this DIR-655 is slightly different.What I want to do is allow only the WiFi MAC addresses that I choose to access the network. It seems to me that in order to accomplish this I have to include all of my wired LAN devices' MAC filters as well. I can see having MAC filtering for WiFi devices, however why do I need to add my wired LAN devices MAC addresses?
I'm not going to allow just anyone to walk into my home off the street and plug a computer into the network via CAT-5 ethernet cable, so isn't there a way to accomplish just the WiFi allow list and the heck with the wired nodes? The LinkSys routers I used in the past allowed me to allow the MAC filter for WiFi devices only. Is there a way around having to allow all MAC's and just allowing the wifi's? Jul 22, 2012 207.NA Firmware, B1 Hardware in use on a DIR-655, Time Warner Cable setup. Nothing to do with Revision, cordless phones,I saw this asked once before specifically here, but it was never answered.After several attacks via our cable network and neighbors, we've HAD to turn on MAC filtering.
There are TONS of devices attached normally so two situations popped up: #1: What happens when you max out the authorized MAC address listings? Does the page get longer when you save/reboot it? Do I have to do it manually from there forward and where can I get down to the core programming level to edit the code and put the MAC's that are around and on 100% of the time to open up the plug-in list on the GUI? #2: Guest Zone - we NEED a way to have random guests get on our Network with a different password we can randomly change to prevent the outside abuse, etc. But am I understanding what little else has been posted that the MAC filtering also covers the Guest Zone and therefore I have to stick them in there before they could simply log on with the current password? Is there any way to change/stop that without eliminating MAC filtration as a whole?
Sep 3, 2011 It shows this option 'Filter wireless clients: Apply MAC Filtering to devices that connect to the network via Wi-Fi. This is the normal usage of MAC Filtering. Filter wired clients: 'However I don't see that option on the actual page.
How can i enable Mac address filtering only for the wireless side? Oct 7, 2011 I have a Cisco RV082 that doesn't appear to filter any selected categories. To run through what i've done so far, within the 'Web Protection' screen i've: enabled URL filteringconfigured a number of categories to filter by putting a tick in the repective business hours boxset the business days to 7 days a weekspecified business time as 24hrshit the save button. My licence appears as activated and my platform shows as 'gateway service'.I've gone on to a number of machines and all are able to access websites that fall under my blocked category (facebook for example even though i've blocked the social networking category). Sep 27, 2012 i have a d-link wireless router model DIR-601 and all the lights keep turning on and off besides the power May 16, 2008 How to unblock limewire cuz its not working after i installed a DIR-655 at home.
Jun 6, 2012 I have bricked my DIR-825 when performing an upgrade of DD-WRT. Now I am not able to go on to the Recovery Web page. ( 192.168.0.1 ) after performing the 30/30/30 rule, wich always worked before.
I had done an update of dd-wrt and lost all of my wireless adapters, they said to load open-wrt, find the caldata and write this. This all worked. But after a reboot, the deviced bricked on me. Jul 18, 2012 I just upgraded from DIR 615 to DIR 655. I used the installation CD but I have no wifi signal detected. Wired connection with 655 works though. If I go back to 615, wifi works.
May 4, 2011 I'm having problems connecting my ip phone with DIR-615.I got a plug and use ip phone from vocalocity, it's actually from the office where we also had the same problem and a the end we just changed to a different router coz we didn't have time to look for solutions, anyways i brought one of the phones to my house and plugged it to the d-link but it's not working. May 19, 2011 Recently, something weird occurred. My Motorola Surfboard cable modem (on PenTeleData/Service Electric) and my D-Link DIR-655 don't seem to be getting along.If I plug a network cable directly from the modem into a computer, it works fine.